Producer to Rely On: California's Landmark Vineyards Consistently Produces Top-Rated Chardonnays by Sharon Kapnick

Producer to Rely On: California's Landmark Vineyards Consistently Produces Top-Rated Chardonnays

There’s nothing like consistency — at least when something is consistently excellent, like the wines of Landmark Vineyards. They’ve repeatedly won high ratings from Robert M. Parker Jr.’s Wine Advocate, Steve Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar (although Tanzer is not nearly as well known as Parker, he’s extremely well regarded by wine cognoscenti) and other influential wine publications.

Landmark’s signature wine, the Overlook Chardonnay, has appeared on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list seven times since 1997. Indeed, Landmark is known for its Chardonnays. They make it clear why Chardonnay remains the most popular white varietal in the US.

There are a number of reasons for Landmark’s success. Landmark subscribes to the belief that wine is made in the vineyard. Its philosophy is quite simple: “Less is more.” According to winemaker Eric Stern, “The less the wine is manipulated, the more flavors and aromas remain to enjoy.” So, for example, Stern employs indigenous natural yeasts present on the skin of the grapes to create the main fermentation, even though this is riskier than using commercial yeast. But each natural yeast contributes its own unique flavor components to the wine, so the finished product is aromatically complex and more reflective of the vineyards.

The goal is to start with perfectly balanced grapes, which come from some of California’s best vineyards. “Understanding the nature of the vintage and how the grapes are maturing and waiting for that narrow window of perfection in the vineyard are the key to producing great wine,” says Stern. When, in addition, vineyard management is good and the weather cooperates, then “the wine literally makes itself.”

Other important ingredients in Landmark’s wines include tender loving care from others in a talented, experienced team. This family-run winery was founded in 1974 in Sonoma by Damaris Deere Ford. In 1992 she persuaded her son Michael Deere Colhoun and his wife Mary to join her. After the Colhouns arrived, they hired Helen Turley — who today is considered by many to be California’s best living winemaker and is now a world-renowned consulting oenologist — to work with them for a few years. Stern and associate winemaker Greg Stach together have more than 30 years experience at Landmark. Other staff members also have great longevity at the winery — and the passion and commitment that distinguish it.

Landmark pays great attention to detail so that the wines will be the best they can possibly be. If you’re a Chardonnay fan and care about good value, you’ll want to bookmark Landmark (www.landmarkwine.com). And since 2007 was a great year for California Chardonnay, well, it’s time to go shopping!

Food pairings: In general, Chardonnay complements crab, lobster, scallops, salmon, shrimp, and other seafood, chicken, veal, dishes made with butter and butter sauces and cream and cream sauces. According to Evan Goldstein’s Perfect Pairings, it also works well with onions and garlic, mild white mushrooms, dishes made with nuts, and some sweet spices.

Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2007: Grapes from 22 different vineyards in Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara contributed to the 2007 Overlook. Mary Colhoun says wine becomes “greater than the sum of its parts” through blending, and Overlook exemplifies that.

Aromas and flavors of peach, tropical fruit and citrus. This medium-to-full-bodied wine is elegant, crisp, fresh and lively, with balanced acidity and a creamy texture; judicious use of oak. Landmark recommends serving this wine with seafood, cream-sauced pasta dishes, raclette and Asian cuisine. SRP: $29.99; $17.99 at www.wine-searcher.com*.

Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2008: Grapes from 18 different vineyards in Sonoma and Santa Barbara contributed to the 2008 Overlook. Aromas and flavors of apricot, pear, nectarines and honey. Lively acidity; judicious use of oak. Landmark recommends serving this wine with seafood, pastas with cream sauces and poultry. SRP: $29.99; just being released at the time of writing, so it’s not available on www.wine-searcher.com yet.

Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay 2007: Sonoma County grapes from the Sangiacomo (Carneros) and Lorenzo (Russian River Valley) vineyards. Aromas and flavors of peach, apricot, mango and citrus. Full bodied and rich. Judicious use of oak; bracing acidity. Landmark recommends serving this wine with a wide range of seafood dishes, roast pork, chicken and Asian-influenced dishes. SRP: $39.99; $29.99 at www.wine-searcher.com*

**Note: SRP = suggested retail price. The website prices are the lowest prices for these wines at www.wine-searcher.com at the time of writing. I don’t endorse or recommend the particular online outlets, although I do recommend www.wine-searcher.com.