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Articles
Sharon Kapnick, Food Friendly Wines, Part Six, Pinot Noir: While Burgundian Pinot Noirs have been revered for centuries, all Pinot Noir wines have been gaining popularity in the US since 2004, when the movie Sideways demonized Merlot and glorified Pinot Noir
Sharon Kapnick, Food Friendly Wines, Part Five: Beaujolais — These fruity, juicy, soft, smooth, light-to-medium body wines pair well with, well, almost everything
Sharon Kapnick, Food Friendly Wines, Part Four, Rosés: Some rosés are simple, eminently quaffable wines, others sophisticated gems. They’re all refreshing and meant to be drunk young, within a year or two of the vintage
Sharon Kapnick, Croft Pink Port — Perfect for the Patio or the Porch: A light ruby that combines white port technology and red port grapes
Sharon Kapnick, Food Friendly Wines, Part Three: Riesling — Many wine lovers consider Riesling to be the most important white wine grape. It used to receive the respect it deserved
Margaret Cullison, My Mother's Cookbook Quick Bakes: Cayenne Cheese Wafers, Coffee Cake, Meemock’s Nut Bread and Hannah’s Raisin Bread — For home chefs who have complicated schedules, quick bakes that don’t require rising and kneading time lend a flair to what might seem like an ordinary social occasion
Sharon Kapnick, Food Friendly Wines, Part 2; Sauvignon Blanc: While it’s easy to like Sauvignon Blanc, it’s a difficult wine to get to know well. Just when you think you’ve got a handle on it, you’ll happen upon a version that tastes quite different
Sharon Kapnick, Food-Friendly Wines; Part One: Sparkling Wines — Sparkling wines offer a great way to make every day special. And no wine is a better all-purpose match for food
Margaret Cullison's My Mother's Cookbook, Old-Fashioned Recipes: Rice and Lima Bean Casseroles, Buddy’s Baked Beans, Aunt Rickie’s New Year’s Cakes — Despite the variety of esoteric flavors that might cross our palates in trendy restaurants or the tasty but calorie-laden fast food we consume, nothing quite beats the simple flavors of these slow-cooked, time-tested meals
Sharon Kapnick, How Sweet It Is: Dessert wines for all budgets — There’s something sure to please every palate and every pocketbook, something appropriate to end a special meal or suit a special friend
Margaret Cullison's Recipes from Relatives: Buddy’s Oatmeal Cookies, Nadine’s Buttermilk Waffles and Date Pudding, Marcia’s Marshmallow Frosting — A bride moving into a home where her mother-in-law still lives can create a situation ripe for combat but perhaps that mother-in-law remembered when she married her deceased sister’s husband with a household that included her new husband, teenage stepson and two orphaned nephews
Rose Mula asks "Why do I keep buying things I probably won’t eat? Because they’re good for me, and I know I should eat them. Instead, however, I usually pop a big greasy hamburger on the grill; but I do put ketchup on it, and eat chips with it — don’t they count as two veggies?" The Attack of the Vengeful Veggies
Gourmet's TV Show
We've looked at a number of the instructional cooking programs over the years guided by our favorite stars, some of whom have faded or moved on. But we've thoroughly enjoyed Gourmet Magazine's Diary of a Foodie program now on PBS in most areas.
Here are bits from several episodes we've seen. The introductions will give you an idea of the variety and quality of this series:
Episode 17
What does it take to turn a run of the mill beverage into an exceptional drink? In this episode we'll see how some foodies turn alcoholic drinks into a singular experience in their own right. We'll sample cocktail artist Scott Beattie's daring signature drink menu at Cyprus Restaurant in Healdsburg, California, learn the process of crafting Peruvian Pisco brandy at the Tres Generaciones distillery, and explore the American micro-brewing movement with New York pioneer Garrett Oliver, creator of Brooklyn Lager. We'll observe these quality crafters across the globe as they elevate wine, beer, and spirits into delectable libations as sophisticated as a fine meal.
(See our own Sharon Kapnick's articles for her picks of a drink of choice)
Episode 18
Different countries have different standards to determine the safety of foods. Most government health organizations quickly ban foods that pose potential health risks. But there is an entirely separate category of cuisine that falls into the "gray zone," not necessarily dangerous, but banned for a variety of other reasons. Often, with this controversial fare, what ends up being legal in one country is considered contraband in another. From the reemergence of mind-altering Absinthe in France to gourmet uses of the coca leaf, from Ireland's potent Poitin liquor to a luxurious Foie Gras update to the Chicago-style hot dog, come see how some enticing foods are a lightning rod to both the connoisseurs who savor them and those who feel compelled to protest.
Episode 4
Water — an essential element of life that has influenced cuisines around the world. From the oyster-rich shores of Seattle's Puget Sound to a specialty shop serving hundreds of imported mineral waters in Rome's railway station, see how this versatile ingredient has evolved into so much more than a thirst quencher. Dive in and discover how chefs think about the use of water, and the ways in which it sustains, enhances, and sometimes even transforms their recipes.
Exclusive
Think You Know H2O?
So you think you know how to boil water. You may be surprised by these words of water wisdom from Harold McGee.
Episode 3
Italy has always been considered one of the world's top food destinations, famous for the incredibly vibrant, inviting cuisine that is enormously significant within the country's culture. This reputation, upheld by generation after generation, is fueling a popular new trend where visitors can experience the hospitality and tastes of Italy first hand by dining with locals in private residences. From the urban, fast-paced sprawl of Rome to the sleepy, picturesque villages of the countryside, see how hungry travelers are treated to the authentic, delicious, and fulfilling tastes of traditional Italian homes.
Exclusive
Mario Makes His Italy Hit List
Pack Up Batali's Best Bets
Check the local listings for the PBS station near you.
Articles
Sharon Kapnick, Hot Diggity, Dog Diggity: What Wine to Drink with Hot Dogs — Yes, Hot Dogs! They say what grows together goes together. In Alsace that would be the delicious sausages and wonderful wines the Alsatians produce. The best-known Alsatian dish is choucroute garnie, sauerkraut with sausage and other meats
Margaret Cullison continues series of recipes from her mother's midwestern cookbook. This time it includes her aunts' contributions: Louise’s Chewy Brownies; Virginia’s Chili, Orange Bread and Cheese Cake
Sharon Kapnick, Beyond Beer: The Best Wines to Accompany Chinese Food: Food and wine should complement, rather than overpower, each other. As wine importer Rudi Wiest likes to say, "Whatever’s on the plate is already dead. You don’t have to kill it again.” You don’t want a wine that will overwhelm a dish; you want one that will stand up to it
Julia Sneden, A Spoonful of History: By the time I came along, however, my ancestors had moved up a few notches to coin silver. As a result, and as my mother’s only daughter, I inherited an odd lot of coin silver teaspoons. No forks or knives or pickle servers or soup spoons came with them, but as long as I stuck with tea, I could set a lovely table.
When my great grandmother was a girl, it was fashionable to give a silver spoon to mark just about any occasion. In 1856, when she married my great grandfather, someone gave her a silver teaspoon marked with a “B” for her new last name. It is so much heavier than other coin silver spoons that the family has always called it "the iron spoon,” although the back of the handle is plainly stamped: “pure coin."
Book Review
Sharon Kapnick reviews The Oxford Companion to American Food & Drink which starts with A&W root beer stands and ends with zombie, the dynamite rum cocktail. In between, it serves up everything you wanted to know about a subject as well as everything you didn’t know you wanted to know
Comfort Food
Margaret Cullison's latest installment of recipes from her mother's cookbook: Comfort Foods: Chicken Pie, Baking Powder Biscuits, Dumplings and Boiled Dinner.. The task of preparing a hot and hearty meal every night for a family of six was more difficult for small town housewives in the 1940s. Fast food didn’t exist, and there weren’t many restaurants to go out to and even fewer good ones
Guides for Wine Lovers
Sharon Kapnick, Shopping Guides for Italian and French Wines: A couple of shopping guides for Italian and French wines have recently been published. Although quite different, they’re both a great help in getting a handle on these very important regions
Feeding Desire
The Cooper Hewitt's exhibit, Feeding Desire: Design and the Tools of the Table, 1500-2005, is a "journey through the evolution of Western dining from the Renaissance to the present" featuring objects from the CH's collections. "The exhibition will address the development of utensil forms,
innovations in production and materials, etiquette, and flatware as
social commentary."
While you're pursuing the exhibit, don't overlook the Design de Jour quiz. One of the questions:
If you could host a dinner party using place settings from one of the following eras, which era would you choose? The choices are: 18th or 19th century France, 18th century England, 1950s Scandinavia.
Article
Sommelier Sharon Kapnick advises Make Every Day Special: These Reasonably Priced European Sparkling Wines Are Great for Parties, Office “Pours,” Everyday Celebrations and Just Plain Old Every Day
Excerpt
From an excerpt from Accounting for Taste: The Triumph of French Cuisine
Babette's Feast:
A Fable for Culinary France by Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson
Among the many films that center on food at the end of the twentieth century, Babette's Feast (Babettes Gaestebud) stands out for its reach and for the subtlety of its sensuality. For this film depicts far more than food and foodways; it shows more than the sensuality of food in our lives. Paradoxically, this Danish film tells an exemplary tale of French cuisine. Its portrayal of a French cook far from France evokes the French culinary landscape even more than the Danish countryside where it is set.
Surely it is appropriate that the cinema supply the iconic culinary text of the twentieth century. Film captures, as a photograph cannot, the interactive process that culinary art requires. More immediately than print and like cuisine itself, film conveys a sensory awareness that embraces the viewer as the more intellectual medium cannot. Just as the written recipe can only suggest the sensory, so words inevitably fail to convey the comprehensive, all-enveloping sensuality of taste. The immediacy achieved by the moving narrative raises Babette's Feast to iconic status well above the short story by Isak Dinesen from which it is drawn. Through its exploitation of the sensory, the film transforms a "story from the human heart," as Dinesen puts it in the narrative frame of the original story, into an emblem of French culinary culture.
.....
Just as the meal in the film effaces the discord among the disciples, so, too, Babette's Feast uses the senses to illuminate and transcend the everyday. The film mutes the political because it takes us beyond conflict. We see not only the effects of consumption but also, and most importantly for my fable of French cuisine, the care of preparation. Babette's Feast is a food film because it follows the meal from beginning to end, from the trip to procure foodstuffs through the multiple activities of cooking and serving and the pleasures of dining. Consistent with the emphasis on the construction of beauty, the film glosses over the less appealing, destructive aspects of preparation. There is no hint of how the turtle actually ends up as soup. The closest we come to slaughter is a shot of the quail carcasses in a basket being taken to the garbage. Instead, the film focuses on preparation. The camera closes in on Babette's hands as she cuts the rounds of puff pastry dough, adds caviar and creme fraiche to the blinis, stuffs the quail with foie gras, and assembles it, with the head in place, on its pastry coffin. Walnuts are added to the endive salad, big rounds of hard cheese are cut into serving portions; the Nesselrode pudding is finished with whipped cream, glazed chestnuts, and chocolate sauce. We are almost at table level as each wine is poured into glasses that sparkle like a stained-glass window on a sunny day.
Read the rest of the excerpt at the University of Chicago Press site.
Barbara Kafka
I love Barbara Kafka's Microwave Gourmet. The cookbook not only contains an alphabetical listing of different foods and how to cook them but many recipes. The book can be found in paperback editions.
Recently, NPR did an interview with Ms. Kafka about her new cookbook. The network includes recipes that she worked on during the show: Fiddlehead and Chanterelle Risotto and Lemon-Light Carrots, Carrot Sorbet and Carrot-Honey Ice Cream. The recorded interview at the NPR site.
A LOC Webcast: A History of Barbecue
Only the Library of Congress could come up with such varied subjects of webcasts, such as
Barbecue: A History of the World's Oldest Culinary Art delivered by cookbook author, Steve Raichlen.
A 70 minute webcast (using WebPlayer) ensues which is informative, fun and a travelogue in itself, following the fire and the barbecue trail of fifteen countries and 500 recipes. Raichlen begins his odyssey in the Caribbean and South America and continues to Asia to nations known for their grilling skills.
He also includes tips in the lecture for sucessful direct grilling, such as dipping your brush in salt water. Other tidbits are little known facts such as Americans are just about the only people who use white meat chicken for grilling; the dark meat is most prized in most of the world.
Four nations are known for their women "grill jockeys": Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam and Mexico. That's because women in those countries who want to start a business in cooking can begin on the street with a simple grilling setup.
The webcast is available at the LOC site
New Links
JoanneHudson.com - One of the dinnerware styles is derived from the Japanese aesthetic of wabi-sabi; another, ASA, with French and Asian influences. There's a Bridgewater Pottery flower baker dish, baby mug and milk bottle vase. Signature striped bowls are on the site as well as utensils, tea towels,
Domus - A nut twister, a tomato holder, a terra cotta garlic baker, a rosette/timbale set, an edge wedger, a burger press, a dual sided tart and tamper set ... all intriguing objects from the gadget section of this site. There's a cherry colander that could serve as a decorative object in itself and a 'perfect beaker' that measures
all
in one- tablespoons, teaspoons, ounces, cups, pints, ml/j Wind chimes, 'singing bowls, ' an ice-cream cone shaped dessert glass, suction soap holster and other off-beat and quite different items for home and entertaining are here.
Excerpt
Garlic and Sapphires; The Secret Life of a Critic
“I’m a restaurant critic,” I told the woman in the wig shop, “and I need a disguise that will keep me from being recognized.”
“That’s a new one on me,” she said. “Do you have a special restaurant you’re working on at the moment?”
“Yes,” I said, remembering the fragrant aroma of the soup I had eaten on my last visit to Lespinasse. When I dipped my spoon into the broth shimeji mushrooms went sliding sensuously across my tongue with the lush texture of custard. I tasted lemongrass, kaffir lime, mushroom and something else, something that hovered at the edge of my mind, familiar but elusive. I took another taste and it was there again, that sweetness, hiding just behind the citrus. It came whirling into my consciousness and then slid maddeningly away before I could identify it.
“The food was wonderful,” I told her, “but I think they made me. Everything’s been just a little too perfect. So I want a foolproof disguise.”
“Try this,” she said, opening a drawer and pulling out a cascade of hair the color of Dom Perignon. As the wig caught the light the color changed from pearl to buttercup."
Read the rest of the excerpt from Garlic and Sapphires; The Secret Life of a Critic by Ruth Reichl
And while we're on the subject of Ruth Reichl, do read her interview at Epicurious about the condensing of Gourmet Magazine's recipes down to a five-and-a-half-pound book, The Gourmet Cookbook.
To the question from Epicurious,
Do you have any new additions to your Monday to Friday quickie repertoire from the book? she answered:
There's a beef brisket I started making that you cook in beer. It's sort of like a carbonade but it's done with one piece of brisket, and it takes about ten minutes. You sauté a lot of onions, you brown the brisket and cover it with all the onions and some beer, and you throw it in the oven and cook it at a low temperature for a long time. And it's better two days later. This is, in my family, happiness for a week. My family would happily eat this every night. Just the notion that it's there in the refrigerator is very comforting.
There's a wonderful warm chocolate raspberry pudding cake that is so fabulous and makes its own icing. Also there's a jeweled rice dish that's very easy. It's like a version of a Persian dish. It's good cold, it's good hot, it makes your house smell great. And definitely this dried-apricot soufflé. I just love it.
We'll be trying all three of these dishes; we bought multiple copies to give away last Christmas at Costco.
The Battlefield of Competitive Cooking
Fair competitions have been with us since the founding of this country. "Cook-offs, bake-offs, and similar competitions seem to have evolved with agricultural fairs and harvest festivals, which, in turn, are descended from the farmer's markets of the Old World," says Gary Allen, author of The Resource Guide for Food Writers (Routledge, 1999). "As farms grew in size, and the distances between neighbors increased, functions like agricultural fairs became important social outlets."
Over the years, these fairs and their contests have developed stringent sets of rules. Architectural desserts are not welcome. Classic fare is what counts, and judges look for nothing short of archetypal excellence. With pens drawn, they nibble and scribble all afternoon, searching for the lightest angel food cake, the flakiest pie crust, the snappiest gingersnap cookie. And despite the occasional need to surreptitiously swig Pepto-Bismol, they dutifully award blue, red, and yellow ribbons, along with nominal cash prizes. (Six dollars for first prize is the going rate at some fairs.) And for another year, at least, the reputations of a few are defended, while the resentment of countless others festers.
It isn't just the contesters who sling midsummer mud at these fairs. The judges also get into action. "The problem is every judge has an opinion," says Laura Thomas (not her real name), a multiple contest winner as well as a judge at the Bethlehem Fair in Bethlehem, Connecticut. Speaking of one baking-goods judge in particular, Thomas says, "Oh, she annoys me. If there's a cake that one of the other four of us likes, she just has to trash it. She always thinks her opinions are right. And every year it's the same thing. We argue a lot, but, in the end, the majority rules."
Read the entire article, With Knives Drawn; The Competition of Competitive Cooking by David Leite at Leite's Culinaria.
Chocolate and Confession
We decided to sign up for a newsletter from a wonderful confection site, one we had visited in San Francisco. Here's the confession entitled He's Not That Into You we found in the October Newsletter of Recchiuti Confections, accompanied by a marvelous recipe for Apple-Tarragon Fritters:
There are guys you have as friends and guys you have as boyfriends. And then … there are the guys that don’t fit either description. These are the ones who can get away with calling late Friday afternoon with the question, “Got plans tonight?” You’re a speed-dial away from canceling on the girls. “Nothing firm. Why? What’s up?” This is the guy your friends groan at the mention of. When asked what you did last night, you say you stayed at home and caught up on Sex in the City, rather than admit that you saw this guy. He is fun. He is sweet. He just isn’t that into you. Still, you never say no when he calls. When he comes to your house, he’s a spoon-wielding vision with a pint Haagen-Dazs and an excellent knack for personal grooming. This particular night, he places himself on the sofa, being ever so careful not to wrinkle his Prada pants. You come back from the kitchen with THE world’s best chocolate sauce, dim the lights and plaintively yield the remote control. He leans back, licks the spoon clean and cues the machine. As Carrie, Amanda, Miranda and Charlotte flicker to life, you sigh “What a perfect evening.” If only he were into you. Were you hoping for something more? Well, maybe. Were you just as satisfied? Almost.
From the newsletter, we learned about Fleur de Sel, as well as a recipe for Banshee Balls (Irish Whiskey Truffles):
(Flower of Salt)
Exotic and rare, Fleur de Sel is one of the newest trends in both savory foods and sweets. These wonderfully flavorful salt crystals derive their name from the delicate violet scent that develops as the salt dries. Recchiuti Confections favorite brand uses only premium, top layers of the salt bed, hand-raked and harvested in France. Each container is sealed with a cork top and signed by the Salt Raker who harvested it.
Beautiful pink and grey hues distinguish the moist, flaky texture of Fleur de Sel crystals, while the marvelous flavor reflects a delicate balance of the numerous salts, minerals, and micronutrients. The taste is completely unlike the processed table salts most of us are used to.
Truly the finest salt available, Fleur de Sel is a revelation in food seasoning. It’s unique characteristics and qualities are best showcased by sprinkling over foods just before serving. The salt draws out the full flavor of the other ingredients and is a natural inspiration for Michael Recchiuti. He has outdone himself by prominently featuring this culinary jewel in traditional favorites like caramels and peanut butter cups. These newest confections are a great introduction and exploration into Fleur de Sel.
And, yes, there is a shop on site, but just reading the entries can induce calorie acquisition as well as great happiness. Oeuf de Pâques? You'll have to go to the April '04 issue. Subscribe to the newsletter? Yes, I'd heartily (or is that sweetly?) recommend it.
Julia Child
One way to celebrate Julia Child's career is to try some of the recipes that are available at the PBS site complete with steaming video. It's possible to use the fully searchable database for the type of recipe you'd like to view and try out in your kitchen.
Julia Child's Lessons With Master Chefs
Excerpt
Paris, 6 July 1829, early evening
A hired barouche rattles up the Champs-Elysées. Inside: a
noblewoman so tiny her close-cropped wig is barely visible through
the carriage's open window. Lady Morgan, travel writer, Irish radical
and wit, is reflecting upon her dinner invitation, and upon food.
'You are going to dine at the first table in France in Europe!'
she had been told. 'You are going to judge, and taste for yourself,
the genius!'
An invitation from the Rothschilds had incited both jealousy and
awe at Lady Morgan's Paris lodgings, and not just because James
and Betty de Rothschild were the richest couple in France. Their
chef, known to everyone, was Antonin Carême. And all Paris,
including Lady Morgan, wanted to eat À la Carême. She already knew
all about him: the wedding cake he had made for Napoleon and his
empress, the gargantuan banquets he had cooked for the Tsar, the
elaborate patas he had created for the Prince Regent in London (which
she remembered being sold illicitly from the palace kitchens at
exorbitant prices). She had even read Carême's books, his descriptions
of life 'below-stairs' in Paris, St Petersburg and the Brighton
Pavilion, and she knew the rags-to-riches tale of his life; of how
an abandoned orphan of the French Revolution rose to become the
chef of kings and king of chefs. Lady Morgan was in Paris researching
the sequel to her 'best-seller', France in 1818, which would be
titled, prosaically enough, France in 1829, and her subject that
hot July evening was Carême, and a novel French cult: gastronomy.
Apple Charlotte, Turbot à la Hollandaise, Potage à la Ràgence, Salmon
à la Rothschild: Carême's recipes were on everybody's lips because
food was the thing to talk about in France in 1829. This was the
first age of gastronomy when for the first time a chef became
a celebrity.
6 July 1829, 12 hours earlier
A slight, ashen-faced man, looking older than his 45 years, breathed
with difficulty in the early-morning Paris fug; he was slowly dying
from the poisonous fumes of a lifetime of cooking over charcoal.
With his weakening left arm, Antonin pulled himself into his carriage,
which then followed the same route that Lady Morgan's would take
later that day to the Rothschilds' chateau in Boulogne-sur-Seine.
For a man who had once fed 10,000 on the Champs-Elysées,
this was small potatoes. Even so, work had begun the day before.
Crayfish and brill, eel, cod and sea-bass, quails, chickens, rabbits,
pigeons, beef and lamb had been ordered from Paris markets, along
with specified offals: calves' udders, cock's-combs and testicles,
and the best Mocha coffee and truffles. Isinglass (fish gelatine)
and veal stocks had been prepared, cream supplied locally, and the
chateau's ice-house restocked. The vegetables and fruit for the
menu would come from the Rothschild gardens. Antonin had also already
begun work, with his young assistant, Monsieur Jay, on the sugar-paste
foundations of a table-length 'extraordinaire' in the form of a
Grecian temple, the Sultane À la Colonne. Paris, Left Bank slums,
45 years earlier Antonin Carême was born in 1783. He seems
to have been the sixteenth child and may have had 24 siblings. The
last months of 1792 in Paris stand out for their horrors and turmoil.
There were massacres even of children and heads and
body parts were paraded on spikes through the streets. Crowds gathered
daily at La Guillotine; thousands were arrested or displaced. Antonin's
father took young Carême to the busy Maine gate of Paris and
abandoned him with these words: 'Nowadays you need only the spirit
to make your fortune to make one, and you have that spirit. Va petit!
with what God has given you.' Antonin was taken in by a busy
cook who offered him bed and board in exchange for skivvying. It
was the start of his career.
Read the full excerpt at The
Observer from Ian Kelly's book, Cooking for Kings
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