The Shape of Fashion and Its Underpinnings, 1870 - 1960
The Museum of the Rockies, Montana University, has organized an online exhibit, The Shape of Fashion and Its Underpinnings, 1870 - 1960. Here are a few paragraphs from the exhibit:
"The study of costume — fabrics, style, construction and cut — informs us of both a fashion and social history, and provides a refreshing and enlightening look at human history. The costume collection at the Museum of the Rockies spans from the 1860s to the 1960s and marks the earliest settlement in the Gallatin Valley."
"Underpinnings are the foundation upon which the shape of fashion is built, and similarly reflect the swing of the fashion pendulum. Perhaps more fascinating than the costume itself, these foundations for The Shape of Fashion reflect more earnestly the essence of the feminine realm. From a tight corset and layer upon layer of undergarments to a simple brassiere, the transition in women's foundations tells the story of their journey toward liberation.
"Hoop skirts of the early bustle period were trimmed down considerably from the absurd diameters of the 1860s. A tight bodice and corset, contrasted with a bustled skirt, characterized the silhouette of this period. The fashions of this era reflected the notion that costume was an indication of personal success, and that corseting was a healthy means of controlling the shape of the body."
"Women's activity levels were limited due to multiple layers of clothing: most dresses required at least two petticoats, along with drawers, a chemise and a corset cover. In addition to the corset, a woman endured up to 25 pounds of dress and accessories. The advent of new technologies — particularly the sewing machine (patented in American in 1848) and paper patterns (Butterick, c. 1860) — and the emergence of the department store contributed to mass production and increased availability of fashionable clothing."
"Fashion in England, France and America was strongly influenced by the extravagant taste of King Edward VII. Lavish dinner parties and balls demanded that fashionable women own a vast array of gowns, coats, suits, blouses, hats, furs, feather boas, parasols, fans and gloves. The complexities of society required a complex wardrobe; one had to have a dress for every social occasion and every sporting event. The advent of the automobile required an outfit for driving as well."
"Young women started to enter the workforce, gaining employment as secretaries, switchboard operators, librarians and shop girls. Although tailor-made suits for women first appeared in the 1890s, the suit of shirtwaist (blouse), dark skirt and jacket rose to prominence as a practical yet beautiful addition to any woman¹s wardrobe. The Edwardian silhouette featured a full bosom, fictitious curves and fluff just above the feet. Underwear was more luxurious than ever, made from fine cottons with excessive trims. The bust bodice, an early brassiere, emerged to support the bust as the corset lowers over the hips."
Explore the rest of the exhibit, The Shape of Fashion and Its Underpinnings, 1870 — 1960.
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