Daring Pairings: A Master Sommelier Matches Distinctive Wines with Recipes from His Favorite Chefs
Book Review by Sharon Kapnick
by Evan Goldstein
Published by University of California Press, hardcover, 353 pages
I love books about food and wine because they’re two of my favorite things. So I was delighted to hear about Evan Goldstein’s follow-up to Perfect Pairings (for my review, see A Very Good Year: Here’s to 10 Books That Will Be A Welcome Addition to a Wine Lover’s Library). Perfect Pairings covered the household names — Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc.
Daring Pairings covers 36 of Goldstein’s favorite, lesser known grapes — from A for Aglianico to X for Xinomavro — grapes with “a more enigmatic, international profile.” The three-dozen grapes include “well-known, globally important, and often signature varieties in certain countries or regions [Tempranillo, Chenin Blanc]; ... rising stars [Grüner Veltliner, Malbec] ... and a few long shots [Mencia, Assyrtiko].”
Daring Pairings offers lots of information about the grape varieties, recommends reliable producers and importers, provides pairing principles and suggests “magic” ingredients that can improve food and wine pairings. Goldstein focuses on foods that complement the grapes and foods to avoid with them. The book covers what he calls the keys to understanding wine — acidity, sweetness, tannin, oak and alcohol — and the keys to understanding food — ingredients, cooking methods, sauces and condiments. And it features 36 appealing recipes from talented chefs like Floyd Cardoz, Susan Spicer, Michael Romano, Charlie Trotter and Cindy Pawlcyn.
Bottom Line: Books by Goldstein on food-and-wine matching are de rigueur for anyone interested in the subject. Goldstein himself says, “If you simply enjoy being a little bit adventurous with your wine and food, this book’s for you.” He’s got it right.
©2010 Sharon Kapnick for SeniorWomen.com
