Plant with slugs
in mind
Like deer, slugs have
their preferences, some of which are likely to vary by region
and species. Notwithstanding, planting any of the following is
likely to be a slug invitation so be vigilant: seedlings, hostas,
lettuce, delphiniums, cannas, periwinkle, and marigolds.
Some plants either
repel or simply don't interest slugs. They might be aromatic,
fuzzy, thick-leaved, or prickly. In that category I'd put the
thick or blue-leaf hostas (see below), lamb's ear, artemisias,
pulmunaria, hibiscus, candytuft, euphorbia, beebalm, shasta, echinacea,
sunflowers, rudbeckia. lamium, oenthera, bleeding heart, and foxglove.
I imagine, however, that even a normally slug-resistant plant
might be nibbled if environmental conditions and slug population
determine availability
and appeal. Slug-resistant hostas are actually being breed and
characteristics of heavy, tough foliage or blue leaves are enough
to make a slug look elsewhere.
For a complete list
of varieties, see Budd Gardens website below.
Reduce safe harbors.
Keep all decaying plants,
leaves, old weeds, and other such things out of your garden. If
possible, add space between plants. Don't mulch with grass clippings
or anything thicker than three inches or so. Keep mulch a couple
inches away from the base of your plants.
Soil cultivation
This disturbs the eggs
by bringing them to the surface, where they dry out and die. Start
doing this in the spring and continue hoeing as often as possible.
It also exposes weed seeds, but it's a tradeoff.
Patrolling and handpicking.
If you have the stomach
for it, this method, done with flashlight or early in the morning,
can make a big dent in a garden's slug population. Some gardeners
gather slugs with gloves, chop sticks, tweezers or whatever's
handy. A jar serves as a handy collection vessel and hot soapy
water or a little ammonia will kill them. Using a sprayer to hit
them with diluted ammonia or salt has to be done carefully so
as not to damage plants.
Plant traps.
These are simply artificial
shelters for slugs that can be easily inspected. You can buy them
(Slug Saloon, The Pit) with various baits or construct a homemade
trap with such things as wood, wet carpet, orange or grapefruit
halves, moist newspaper, comfrey leaves or an upended pot. Sometimes
the trap itself can be the bait, like a moist newspaper (a refuge)
or an orange half (food), but some gardeners add bait like a bit
of cat or dog food, lettuce, calendula, beans, horseradish leaves,
comfrey leaves, marigolds, plaintain and zinnias.
The most well known
bait by far is beer. A shallow cat-food can containing beer is
placed in the garden. The beer lures the slugs in and they drown.
Previous thought was that any old leftover beer would do but apparently
that's not correct. According to Colorado
State University entomologist Whitney Cranshaw's test, the
brand makes a difference. Besides different kinds of beer, Cranshaw's
test used non-alcoholic ones, Chablis wine, tap water, and a sugar,
water-yeast mix. His research showed that 'near beer' Kingsbury
Malt Beverage (a Heileman product) beats all the competition.
The top three beverages
were, in order: Kingsbury Malt Beverage, Michelob, and Budweiser.
Cranshaw went even further, finding that flat beer (beer that
had been exposed to air for 48 hours) also made a difference,
depending on the beer. Flat Budweiser, for example, caused sharply
reduced slug capture but flat Pabst Blue Ribbon showed no detrimental
impact. So you might want to experiment for yourself to see what
your slugs like.
When it comes to emptying
the trap, what to do? One option is to throw the mess into the
compost pile. Throwing it in the garbage or flushing down the
toilet seems like a real waste. Consider feeding it to fish and
ducks or putting it on a bird feeder.
Copper.
This very effective
but expensive method creates a barrier around a raised garden,
a particular plant, or a container. The slime on the slug reacts
with the copper, creating an electric charge that stings the slug.
If used as an edging, be sure to keep it free of dirt and grass.
Biological controls.
Nemaslug contains microscopic
nematode worms that reproduce inside the slugs. It is mixed with
water and watered onto the garden and should give protection for
up to six weeks. However, it needs to be kept in the fridge and
requires moist soil for optimum performance. Not recommended for
use on heavy clay soil.
The decollate snail
Rumina decollata is a specific predator of snails and some types
of slugs. Originating from North Africa, the Decollate snails
live for from 1 to 1 1/2 years and lay about 200 eggs per year.
The predatory snails are particularly fond of slug and snail eggs
but do not bother plants. One site says that a normal yard usually
needs about 100 snails; an acre, about 1,000.
Coconut oil soap. Concern
Slug Stop is a pest barrier designed to stop slugs and snails.
The product is made from coconut oil soap and is claimed to work
for up to three weeks, even in rainy weather.
Iron phosphate. Many
organic gardeners, including myself, use Escar-Go or Sluggo, products
that contain this naturally occurring organic compound. It's non-toxic
and breaks down into fertilizer. It can be used around wildlife,
pets, and children without fear of toxicity. According to the
product label, once it's eaten by the snail or slug, the mollusk
stops feeding and dies within 3-6 days. Both products are supposed
to remain effective even after a rain. Reapplication is necessary
as the bait is consumed.
Molluscicides.
This should be a last
resort, considering the potential harm to wildlife and pets. Typically
most snail and slug control products contain metaldehyde or methiocarb,
both toxic materials to mammals.
Slugs contacting or
ingesting the products react by producing copious amounts of slime
and eventually die of dehydration. Molluscicides are most effective
on warm, humid nights and success depends on the slugs actively
foraging for the bait and consuming a lethal dose. The best way
to handle such pesticides is to place them in a closed container
with holes punched in it to allow slugs in but to keep wildlife
and pets out. Put the containers out in the evening and do not
water before or after application. These products are rapidly
inactivated by sunlight so position the containers underneath
leaves late in the day.
Of the two, methiocarb
is less affected by high humidity conditions or cool temperatures.
However, it's also is more toxic to mammals and its use is prohibited
near food crops It's important to read all the manufacturers'
instructions before using any pesticide. Finally, it should be
mentioned that even slugs and snails have their good sides. As
we all know, everything has its purpose. As herbivores, they remove
dead plant tissues, thereby playing an important role in nature's
cleaning processes.
Sources for the non-toxic
products:
Budd Gardens: buddgardens.co)
Gardens Alive: gardensalive.com
Biological Control
Network: biconet.com
Buglogical Control
Systems: buglogical.com
Biological Control
Network, biconet.com
Planet Natural: planetnatural.com
Applied Bio Pest: biopest.com
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