The yeasty aroma of homemade
bread often wafted from my mother’s kitchen.
We
didn’t have bread with every meal but, when bread or rolls were on
the
table, they were served as a complement to dishes that were light
on starch.
Mom considered nutritional balance and the compatibility of color,
texture,
and flavor of foods when planning her menus. Vegetable soup thick
with
tender beef and lentils, plump lima beans baked with onion and
tomato, or
chilled chicken salad with crunchy water chestnuts and slivered
almonds were
likely to be offered with bread or rolls.
The recipe for bread that we liked best came from a German woman
who helped
our mother. Someone to assist with the housekeeping was necessary
when my
two brothers and I were young and our grandmother and her widowed
sister
lived with us in the rambling Victorian house my paternal grandfather
bought
in 1887. Anna Schmieding emigrated to join a colony of her countrymen
who
had come over to farm the rich Iowa soil that surrounded my hometown.
Anna
and Mom exchanged recipes as one good cook to another will do,
and her sour
cream cookies and potato bread were among our favorites.
When my oldest brother went off to college, my mother started working
a few
hours a week at a flower shop that one of her friends had set up
in the
basement of her home. Mom liked the creativity of arranging flowers
and, I’m
sure, the chance to work away from home. The extra money she earned
helped
too, with one child in college and two more soon to follow. Her
family came
first though, and one Saturday she baked three loaves of Anna’s potato
bread
before leaving for the flower shop. It was senior prom night and
more work
than usual would be required of her that afternoon.
Within an hour of her departure, my brother showed up unexpectedly
with a
friend from college in eastern Iowa. Ben had intended the visit
to be a
surprise and didn’t want to wait for the joyous welcome he’d
anticipated
when planning his trip home. He persuaded me to call our mother
on the phone
with a fabricated story that I wanted her to come home right away.
I’ve
never been good at lying and so my half-hearted attempts failed
to alarm Mom
sufficiently to bring her home. In the meantime, Ben had cut into
a loaf of
the warm bread, and he and his friend began devouring slice after
slice,
melted butter dripping between their fingers as they hovered over
the
kitchen table.
This aroused panic in my mind for I imagined the catastrophe of
Mother
returning home to find no bread left for the evening meal. And
none for me
to eat, I might add. I made another phone call and yet another,
but still
she refused to come home, explaining that they had many orders
left to fill.
After Ben and his friend had finished the first loaf and eaten
half the
second, their appetites were sated enough to finally hear my plea
of “please
don’t eat all the bread cuz Mom will be really mad.” In a few
more hours she
did return and was properly surprised and pleased to see her adored
oldest
child. She accepted as normal that he and his friend had helped
themselves
to a healthy amount of her home baked bread.
Anna’s Potato Bread
2 packages dry yeast
1 cup lukewarm potato water (100-115 degrees)
1 cup lukewarm water
1 teaspoon sugar
4 cups flour
Let yeast stand in potato water and sugar for 5 minutes to proof.
Add
additional cup of water and gradually add flour, beating until
smooth. Cover
and put in warm place to rise until double in bulk.
2 cups milk, heated to scalding
4 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons shortening (Anna used lard)
2-3 cups flour
Mix hot milk with salt, sugar, and shortening. Let cool and then
add to the
risen yeast batter. Gradually add two cups of flour to make medium
firm
dough. Knead on floured surface for about 20 minutes, adding more
flour as
needed to make dough smooth and satiny. Cover and let rise again
until
doubled in bulk. Separate dough into three portions and place in
greased
loaf pans. Dough can be shaped into rolls and put in greased 8x12
baking
pan. Let rise to ¾ in bulk. Bake 50 minutes (15-20 minutes for rolls)
at 350
degrees.
Mom’s cobalt blue Fiestaware cookie jar usually contained at least
a few
cookies, and the lid made a distinctive clinking sound whenever
one of us
kids raided the jar. It was so much the centerpiece of the kitchen
that Dad
used to say, “Anna May, when I die you can just put my ashes in that
cookie
jar.” She thought this was vaguely indecent of him, which was exactly
the
reaction he wanted.
We were quite free to take a cookie when we felt hungry, because
Mom firmly
believed in feeding her family well and had none of the present-day
aversion
to sugar and fat. In fact, she had her own disdain for the low-fat,
sugar-free products that have grown popular in the last twenty
years. Anna’s
cookies contain both sugar and fat and, needless to say, lard is
the
preferred shortening.
Anna’s Sour Cream Cookies
1 ½ cups white sugar
1 cup lard or butter
3 eggs
1 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
½
teaspoon ginger; only ¼ teaspoon if using butter
½
teaspoon salt
Pinch of nutmeg
1 teaspoon vanilla
Approximately 5 cups flour
Cream lard or butter with sugar and beat in eggs. Add sour cream, then
add
soda, baking powder, ginger, salt, and nutmeg with enough flour
to make
dough soft enough to form into long rolls about 11/2 to 2 inches
in
diameter. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight. Cut into
thin slices
and put on greased baking sheets. Sprinkle with sugar and bake
at 325
degrees until lightly browned.
As it turned out, Mom needed that cookie jar after Dad died and was given
a
more appropriate final resting place. She maintained her diligence
in
providing cookies throughout the years that her grandchildren came
to visit.
They could always count on being welcomed by their grandmother
with her blue
jar full of cookies. Chocolate chip with walnuts, spicy ginger,
oatmeal and
raisins, buttery peanut butter, sugar cookies with jam in the centers,
whatever might be their current preference. She always asked ahead
of time
what kinds of cookies they wanted. And a surplus supply would be
stored in
plastic containers in the basement freezer, just in case the cookie
jar got
empty. They were even allowed to eat cookies before breakfast,
because isn’t
spoiling the grandkids what grandmothers are for?
Recipes are from the collection of Anna May Cullison.
Margaret Cullison
has recently retired from public education and moved to southern
Oregon. Now liberated from work, she's happy to be writing again.
She can be reached at tekie@charter.net.
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