Feeling like Thelma and
Louise, my good friend Carney McGuire and I packed our bags, left
our men at home, and set off on a great Canadian adventure.
Unlike Thelma and Louise, we didn’t see anyone who even remotely
resembled Brad Pitt, nor did we plunge off the side of a cliff.
Our adventure began with a two day stay in Vancouver, British
Columbia, and boy does that city cook -- so many restaurants,
so little time. We first checked into the Hotel
Vancouver, a magnificent architectural masterpiece that has
an exterior of carved mustachioed faces, Greek mythological figures,
and a roof line that resembles a French chateaux. The interior
is just as awesome with Montinello marble floors in the lobby
and antique furnishings in many rooms. But the staff is
what makes this hotel comfortable. Helpful, gracious, and
smiling, they took great care of us, especially at the concierge
desk, where we asked questions daily.
With a recommendation for lunch, we set off for The Teahouse
Restaurant (604-669-3281), in Stanley Park. This romantic
spot overlooks English Bay and is listed in the book, “The Best
Places to Kiss in the North West.” Where was Brad when we
needed him? We sat in the conservatory under the leaves
of a large rubber tree whose branches touched the glass ceiling;
and people-watched out the windows as bikers, roller blader’s,
joggers and strollers passed by. English Bay is also where cruise
ships depart, on their way north, to the Inside Passage and Alaska.
They say this is the place to be if you want to see the longest
sunsets in the city, but we were at The Teahouse for lunch.
And what a lunch. Fresh salmon and desserts to die for.
While we’re talking about food, let’s discuss the oysters and
seafood at Joe Fortes on Thurlow Street. We ordered one
of chef Brian Fowke’s specials, washed it down with a cool, frosty
Kootenay mountain ale, and left room for dessert. I had
the fresh fig tart and Carney is still talking about the coffee
flavored Creme Brulee. But the most elegant dining experience
we enjoyed, in a tasteful and sophisticated setting, was at Diva
at the Met in the Metropolitan
Hotel. This multi-tiered space, with an exhibition kitchen
had well-spaced tables covered with beige and cream colored linens
and wall pockets filled with fresh red anthrium, bear grass and
palm branches. The fois gras was so sinfully good,
Carney and I could only discuss it in whispers. Set atop a paper
thin slice of apple, and served with grapes and walnuts, ummm
- ahhhh. But I digress.
Fortified with fabulous food, the two senior women from Long
Island were ready to explore some of the 1,000 acres in Stanley
Park, said to be the largest city park in the world, and filled
with both indoor and outdoor attractions. We visited the Vancouver
Aquarium Marine Science Centre (www.vanaqua.org) and fell
in love with the Beluga whales. These five gentle giants
performed aquatic tricks and sang by blowing through their blow
holes (they sound like sea ducks, but then again, so do I when
I sing). We opened the doors to the Amazon Gallery and found
ourselves in the steamy tropics. Some animals and birds
are loose in this jungle setting, and we saw a brilliant scarlet
ibis, a family of cuddly ducks, and a furry snoozing sloth.
We nearly jumped out of our skin when the entire area cracked
with lighting and shook with thunder, and soon discovered that
one of the displays creates this ominous rainstorm attraction.
Disney World has ruined us for reality. We both watched
a silent crocodile at this display, assuming it was wired to move
at some point. We were shocked when we realized the dark
green, glistening thing was real.
We rode the Vancouver Trolley Company cars around the city, jumping
on and off at attractions we wished to see. Granville Island
was great fun with its indoor public market of succulent fruits
and vegetables, fresh flowers, fish, and meats, and luscious
hand-made chocolates. We found shops that sold art, jewelry,
candles, china and more. Another stop put us in Gastown,
the oldest neighborhood in Vancouver, where we saw the only steam
clock in the world, and walked along the original cobble stone
streets.
And then we discovered the spiritual and serene place known as
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, located in Vancouver’s
China Town. This oasis from the bustling city is well hidden
behind 40’ walls. A faithful reproduction of a private Ming
dynasty garden that was created in the Chinese city of Suzhou
in the 1300’s, it was transported in 950 crates of building materials
and artifacts. Our guide, Mr. Julian Law, explained that
the garden paths were circuitous to ward off evil spirits who
can only travel in a straight line. Bats, a sign and shape of
happiness are represented in the hinges, and roof tiles, he explained,
and limestones, brought over from China, can make wishes come
true when touched. A round ball sitting atop a graceful
pagoda, represents a pearl, as pearls mean peace. The various
halls hold Ming dynasty rosewood chairs, a table carved in the
shape of a bat, and silk needlework. Red maples, ginkgo
trees, and Mungo pines are reflected in the small pond, and gardens
are separated by open-worked walls to allow for privacy. Carney
and I agreed this place touched our souls, and was the highlight
of our visit to Vancouver.
The next portion of our trip was going to be quite different.
We were off to see the southern border of Canada by train.
Train travel is growing in popularity, as everyone wants to leave
the driving to someone else. In our case, the driving was
done by capable
engineer, Royce Barber. We boarded CanadaVia Rail’s, (www.viarail.ca)
flagship train “The Canadian,” for the full three days and three
night trip. The double room was small and comfortable, with
two bunk beds that stowed away during the day. We had two chairs
and a large picture window, a tiny sink, and a private toilet.
The shower was down the hall and shared by other passengers in
our car. I took the upper berth , that was an adventure
in itself. We took too many clothes; and we both pack light.
Dressing for dinner is not necessary, and our porter, Jim Grant
said all we needed was a garment bag and a small carry on, all
other luggage could have been checked. Jeans, slacks, a
sweater and some tops or blouses did the trick, and a jacket or
fleece top kept us warm in the all glass bubble car in the evening
when it chilled down. Chef Ron Woods prepared the most incredible
meals for our dining car, such as rack of lamb and prime rib,
and he worked with his staff in a kitchen so narrow that they
could barely stand sideways.
Our train travel was great fun. We explored the lounge,
often sat in the bubble car, read, and met great people like Betty
Schnaar, a librarian from Los Angles who travels alone and has
seen the world. Betty likes to travel by all modes and said,
“Train travel is a great adventure. It gives me the ability
to get off and on at my own pace, at no extra charge, as well
as providing all the creature comforts.” Betty detrained
in Winnipeg and was going to explore this great city and The Forks
market before heading back home. We also had dinner one
evening with Jane Carver from Tampa, Florida. She and her
husband Lewis were on The Canadian to see the Rocky Mountains,
and because Jane just loves trains. “Lewis came to oblige me,”
she said, “but he’s loving it too.”
Our short stops along the way included the town of Jasper.
Next time, Carney and I said, we would get off the train here
and stay a few days. We would rent a car and explore the National
Park, visit Lake Louise, said to be breathtaking, and bask in
the sunlight that reflects off the snow capped Rocky Mountain
peaks. And, we would make sure to visit the shop with the
big neon sign that read, ICE CREAM & SUSHI.
Our great train trek ended in Toronto, where we gave our bags
to a porter and walked across the street to the majestic Royal
York Hotel. How convenient! If you like old-world hotels,
refurbished with all the modern conveniences, this is it.
We entered our junior suite and reveled in all the space.
It was late, and we were flying home in the morning, so we headed
for bed. Carney drank the ice cold glass of milk that was
waiting for us when we checked in, and we shared the dish of assorted
cookies. What a nice touch of home. Next time we return
to Canada, we vowed Toronto will be the city to explore.
Susan Purdy can be
emailed at Suepur@aol.com for
comments and questions.
