You know how we are
unaware of certain things, until they affect us. For example,
pregnant women always notice other pregnant women. Well, just
before I left for a trip to Barbados, my son and daughter-in-law
told me I was going to have my first grandchild. I laughed,
then cried. Over the moon doesn’t even come close to describing
my joy. I’ve waited a long time for this event.
I’ve loved babies I know, and babies I’ve just met, and this
baby, when it was just a thought in my heart. So I boarded
the plane at JFK, heading for the balmy tropics of Barbados,
with a bounce in my step and a mind-set of family.
A forty-five minute
drive from the airport put me at my hotel, Cobblers
Cove in the Parish of St. Peter’s . This resort, situated
on a crescent shaped beach on Goddings Bay, is managed by Hamish
Watson, a charming Scot, born and bred in Antigua. He has helped
to create a resort that feels much like an English country estate.
The majority of the guests are from ‘across the pond’, and during
certain periods, the resort, usually an adult sanctuary, opens
its doors to families. This was one of those times.
I was given
a key, and led to my suite through the loveliest gardens of
mango and coconut trees, Powder Puff bushes, and sweetly scented
ylang-ylang trees. I love entering a resort suite
or hotel room for the first time. It’s like unwrapping
a gift; I open all the closets, check out the fridge,
the bathroom, especially the basket of soaps, shampoos, and
mending kits, and, like a child, I am usually delighted enough
to clap my hands. Cobblers Cove deserved a standing ovation.
My suite consisted of a large living room, a kitchenette (should
I crave a cuppa at midnight); louvered doors that opened to
my own private patio, furnished with the most comfortable lounge
chairs; a dressing area with an iron and board; full-bath including
a hair-dryer (I hate to pack irons and hair-dryers); and a huge
bedroom. Perfect.
The next morning
I enjoyed breakfast under a pink tent, overlooking the beach
and bay. Some bold birds came to share my toast, and poke
their beaks into the butter dish, and I waited for the wild
monkeys to visit, but they had better things to do. A
lovely older woman came to sit a few feet away, at pool-side,
along with a younger woman and small boy. When she looked up
and smiled, I realized she was a recent Oscar-winning actress
who, for the purposes of privacy, shall remain nameless. This
senior woman sat back, tilted her straw hat to avoid the sun,
and began reading a newspaper. Her grandson was sporting
floatation devices around each upper arm, and his red hair told
the story of this young daredevil's personality. He announced
he wanted to try cannon balling into the pool. So our
actress rose from her chair, took off her straw hat, and in
an instant was transformed into just a Grandma, like you, and
me to-be. They played in the pool until they puckered.
She arrived
at dinner that evening to enjoy some of Chef John Hardwick's
cuisine, wearing a long, pristine, white cotton dress.
We struck up a conversation and chatted about her grandson.
Having raised two sons, I commented, “I know boys” and “Your
grandson was quite fearless.” “Oh yes,” she agreed.
I commented that he had counted to seven before throwing himself
into the turquoise colored water. She proudly said, “Oh
he can count all the way to twenty, and he’ll only be three
in June.” We talked a bit more. I didn’t reveal
my new state of Grandma-in-waiting. Then she sat down
with friends, pulled her grandson onto her lap, without a thought
for her pure white dress, and cradled him as he drank his bottle.
Family!
After breakfast,
it took me about eight minutes to walk from Cobblers Cove to
the nearby town of Speightstown. The town is in the process
of going through a major development, restoring the 80-odd buildings,
hopefully to look like Charleston, South Carolina. I stopped
in at St. Peter’s Methodist church, and toured the old grave
yard, also being cleaned up for visitors. Down the road I found
Fisherman’s Pub. This is the local watering hole where
Bajans and travelers meet over a frosty glass of the locally
made brew, Banks Beer. It was too early in the day for me, so
I followed a sign that read, Gang of 4 Art Studio, and
walked up two flights of steps into a large loft. Gordon
Webster, Jr., who can trace his Scottish roots back to 1635,
when his ancestors first settled in Barbados, is one of the
four artists who have banded together to create a family
of kindred spirits plying their craft on this small island.
The walls are filled with colorful paintings, all in different
styles, and Gordon, who reflects the mannerly and friendly attitude
of Bajans, gladly answered all questions.
I imagine that when
you are surrounded by the natural beauty of Barbados, the muse
must strike. I met a mother and son team, Goldie
and David Spieler, who own Earthworks,
a pottery shop filled with whimsical and functional items.
I fell in love with the candle houses designed and executed
by Goldie, and the wonderful tableware called Sunshine.
The owners design and create the pottery, along with their staff,
and each piece is individually decorated. I discovered
other Bajan artists living and working on Barbados including
Henderson Reece, who incorporates the island’s colors into his
batiks on silk and cotton, and Gloria Gaskin, whose finely
woven straw hats and baskets are now being sold in major U.S.
department stores.
I visited the Francia
Plantation in St. George one morning, and wasn’t surprised to
learn that this plantation house is occupied by the Sisnett
family, descendants of the Morialle clan who built the home
in early part of the last century. Jeremy, the grandson
of the original owner, his wife Jenny, and their two children,
Justin and Sarah, enjoy the entire house when the public is
not visiting. I loved the Victorian love-seat in the middle
room which had three seats: one each for the lovers and one
for the dreaded chaperone. A magnificent 130 year-old
Venetian glass chandelier, with etched hurricane shades, illuminated
the 19th century Barbadian mahogany dining table.
The dining room is often used by the Sisnetts to entertain family
and friends who can wander onto the verandah overlooking terraced
lawns and gardens. The gardens, which have been featured
on TV shows and magazines, are particularly beautiful due, in
part, to the talents of Jeremy and Jenny who own and operate
a horticulture business.
Sugar has been the
main agricultural product of Barbados for over 350 years and
I drove by fields of cane and wagons loaded with the brown sugar
stalks before the approach to the Bagatelle Great House Sugar
Plantation. Built by the Earl of Carlisle between
1645 and 1649, the house became the property of Lord Willoughby
who became ‘Governor of Barbados and all the Caribbean’ due
to his loyalty to King Charles II. After changing ownership
several times, the house was named Bagatelle when
the owner lost it in a card game in 1878, referring to it as
“ mere bagatelle.” Today, this historic home is owned
by a husband and wife team, Richard and Val Richings, and houses
both a restaurant and an art gallery. Richard operates
the restaurant, one of the island’s finest, specializing in
Caribbean seafood. Val, who is an painter, oversees the
excellent art gallery, where her paintings join those of other
local artists. As I passed through the gallery,
I found myself in the outdoor lounge and bar which overlooks
the lush green gardens that are lit at night by hundreds of
tiny lights, giving the illusion of a multitude of fireflies.
(E-mail: gourmand@sunbeach.net)
When I met Patrick Gonsalves, owner and captain of the 44’
sailboat Limbo Lady, I knew I had chartered onto the right boat.
Fun and easy-going, Patrick made the four-hour sail one of the
most memorable events in Barbados. I took the wheel for
quite some time and Patrick said I was doing a really great
job, and asked how long had I been sailing. When I told
him this was my first turn at the helm, he didn’t even flinch.
We saw a loggerhead turtle surface for air, flying fish propel
themselves across the bow of the boat and a snorkelers who dotted
the water like the colorful fish below. Later, we had
flying fish for lunch, the food to try on Barbados. The boat
sleeps nine people and Patrick takes couples and families out
for a week of fun and sailing at approximately $1,100 per person.
That evening I packed my bag, shook the hand of the porter
as he transferred my luggage (tipping is not a custom in Barbados
and is not encouraged), bid good-bye to General Manager HamishWatson
and Assistant Manager Christopher Eastmond, and set off for
home. I had enjoyed the families I met in Barbados, but
now I couldn’t wait to hear updates on ‘Fig’, my name for the
much-loved fetus growing in my daughter-in-law’s tiny tummy.
