Food-Friendly Wines
Part One: Sparkling Wines
I don’t know about you, but the world is making less and less sense to me these days. As far as wine goes, one thing I can’t quite figure out is why Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon — wines that are often overoaked or overpowering and don’t bring out the best in many foods — are by far the most popular wines in the US. It’s especially perplexing because there are lots of other wines and varietals that beautifully complement many different dishes and cuisines. Although these wines aren’t as well known as their ubiquitous counterparts, lately they’ve been gaining ground — and favorable press.
And no wonder. Their range is wide, their flexibility impressive. These wines are not only the most sensible wines to have around your house, they’re the most sensible wines to take to a friend’s dinner party and the most sensible wines to order at a restaurant, when you’re having this and others are having that, and that, and that.
In a world that seems more topsy-turvy every day, why not introduce a little sanity into your life with these food-loving wines?
Sparkling wines are made from a wide variety of grapes in most countries that produce still wines. Recently, they’ve become more of an everyday beverage, no longer reserved just for special occasions. That’s due in part to the availability of many very good reasonably priced bubblies. It’s also due to their versatility:
As I’ve said before*, while sparkling wine may not necessarily be the best wine for a particular dish, it’s usually at worst a good accompaniment — and often much more. Sparkling wine doesn’t have aggressive flavors or tannins that overwhelm food; its thousands of tiny bubbles do a great job of cleansing and refreshing the palate; and its acidity and fruit temper spicy heat in food.
Sparkling wines offer a great way to make every day special. And no wine is a better all-purpose match for food. (Note: Of course, Champagnes are the most loved sparkling wines of all. As for pairing them with food, I recommend Champagne for Dummies author Ed McCarthy’s article called "Champagne for the Dinner Table" at www.winereviewonline.com.)
Good Food Partners: Appetizers; deep-fried, sautéed and other oily foods; salty foods; eggs; quiche; soups; salads; dim sum; caviar; fish; seafood, including smoked salmon, oysters, shrimp, scallops, crab and lobster; sushi; sashimi; tempura; pasta; charcuterie; pâtés; barbecue; Chinese and other Asian cuisines; creamy, rich or hard, salty cheeses; see my story How Sweet It Is: Dessert Wines for All Budgets for sparkling-wine-and-dessert pairings**
Recommended Sparkling Wines
In addition to Champagne, France offers many excellent, less-expensive options. Crémant d’Alsace, from a great winemaking region, is the second-best-selling category of AOC sparkling wine in France, after — you got it! — Champagne.
Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé NV
2006 Domaine Barmès Buecher Crémant d’Alsace
Languedoc-Roussillon produces more wine than any other region in France. It’s a great source of many good inexpensive wines.
2004 St. Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux Brut
2005 Antech “Grande Réserve” Blanquette de Limoux Brut
The Loire Valley too is known for its bubblies, called fines bulles in the region.
Bouvet Signature Brut NV
Marquis de la Tour Brut NV
Langlois Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV
Domaine du Vieux Pressoir Saumur Brut NV
Italians in the Veneto drink Prosecco all day long. Americans have been catching on.
Zonin Prosecco Special Cuvée Brut NV
Artisanal it isn’t, but it is fun — fruity, with a little sweetness, a unique mix of Sémillon, Traminer, Viognier and Trebbiano grapes.
Yellow Tail sparkling ( Australia)
Australia ’s known for sparkling red Shirazes that are de rigueur there with turkey dinner at Christmastime. Try them at barbecues, with Chinese dishes including spare ribs and Peking duck — and, of course, with kangaroo!
The Black Chook Sparkling Shiraz NV
Three little-known grapes — Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada — are the foundation of Spain’s cavas.
Freixenet Brut de Noirs NV
Thanks to drip irrigation and high altitudes in the Golan, Israel too produces lovely sparkling wines. These two are from the best section of the best appellation (Galilee) in the coldest part of Israel.
Yarden Brut NV and 2000 Yarden Blanc de Blancs
Many California sparkling wines are splendid, including the following:
Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs NV
J Cuvée 20 Brut NV
2006 Sofia Blanc de Blancs
Other states also produce fine sparkling wines. Look for those from L. Mawby in Michigan, Gruet in New Mexico, Chateau Frank in New York, Westport in Massachusetts, Argyle in Oregon and Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington.
*Make Every Day Special With Reasonably Priced European Sparkling Wines
**I suggest that you check the back label and ask for advice regarding good food matches where you shop.
Award-winning author and certified sommelier Sharon Kapnick has written about food and wine for many magazines, including Time, Portfolio, Food & Wine and Hemispheres, and many newspapers, thanks to the New York Times Syndicate. She contributed several entries for the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America.
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