Page Two of Food Friendly Wines: Riesling
You may encounter other designations on the label. One of the most important things to know is that the VDP eagle logo on the capsule and the label identifies wines from 200 of the top estates. Trocken and Halbtrocken indicate dry wines, although the latter may have slight sweetness. QbA indicates an entry-level “quality” wine, a step down from QmP. Erstes Gewächs, Erste Lage and Grosses Gewächs signify wines from the best vineyards.
Understanding all these terms helps, but it doesn’t solve the confusion problem because the ripeness level doesn’t always translate into sweetness. Kabinetts, Spätleses and Ausleses can all be dry, depending on how the winemaker crafts the wine. In any event, a bit of sweetness in these wines balances Riesling’s high acidity and enhances the other flavors in the wines. And, besides, while people often insist that they prefer dry wines, market research indicates otherwise. After all, this is the land of Coca-Cola, strawberry shortcake and double-fudge brownies.
German Rieslings are generally fresh, vibrant, light, minerally and fruity, low in alcohol and high in acidity. (Wines high in acidity make the best partners for food. Crisp acidity refreshes the palate and adds liveliness and vibrancy to the wine.) Aromas and flavors to expect in Rieslings include floral notes, lemon, lime, orange, tangerine, grapefruit, apple, apricots, peach, pear, lychee, honey and spice. Sometimes older Rieslings, especially those from top vineyards, will have hints of petrol (more about this in Riesling 102).
Alsace — the only region in France permitted to grow Riesling grapes — is also top Riesling territory. According to Freddy Price, author of Riesling Renaissance, the first likely written reference to Riesling dates back to 1348 in Alsace. Although Alsace doesn’t get the attention Burgundy and Bordeaux do — which makes its wines good values — it’s one of France’s best white-wine regions. Many vintners there treat their vines as part of the family, lavishing great care on the vineyards: Alsace has the largest percentage of winemakers in France employing organic and biodynamic viticulture. In fact, biodynamics — an ultra-organic, New Age farming method based on the teachings of Austrian philosopher-scientist Rudolf Steiner — in France started here in the 1960s.
Alsace Rieslings tend to be bone dry, elegant and fuller bodied than their German cousins, with moderate alcohol and high acidity. They boast elegant mineral and floral aromas, and are steely and flinty in character. While Alsatians typically drink them with dishes like choucroute garnie and fish or chicken in cream sauces, Americans might pair them with sushi, dim sum, tabbouleh, cheese fondue — even tapas — as well as more typical American cuisine.
Although the occasional bottling is off-dry, wines that just say Alsace on the label are usually dry. Grand cru wines (i.e., those from 51 exceptional vineyards) range from dry to sweet. (Labels are starting to include indications of the sweetness level of the wines.) VT (Vendange Tardive) and SGN (Sélection de Grains Nobles) wines are sweet to extremely sweet and generally served with or as dessert.
Other significant regions for Riesling include Austria, Australia, New Zealand, Washington, upstate New York, Oregon and cooler areas of California. (Riesling thrives in cool climates and can withstand frosts.) Washington is the largest Riesling producer in the US. New York’s Finger Lakes region is known for its excellent Rieslings, not unlike those of Germany’s Mosel, although with fuller body and higher alcohol levels.
Because Rieslings cover the gamut from bone dry to sweet-as-can-be — with dry, semi-dry (or off-dry), medium-sweet and sweet in between — it’s especially important to get the style you want. I suggest you inquire about the sweetness level where you shop if the label doesn’t make it clear.
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