Recently, I discovered
a Michigan B&B that lacks fancy rooms and big windows, but views
are picture perfect and the accommodations are classic.
That's because this
bed and breakfast floats along the edge of Lake Michigan's Grand
Traverse Bay. The 380 degree views from the Manitou depict
real time scenes — small sailboats adrift between shore and
the horizon, piers lined by neat rows of masts, bustling marinas
and boaters swabbing their decks. And just like in pictures, waterfowl
flying overhead dot the blue skies.
Discovering the serenity
of sailing on a tall-masted schooner before spending a snug night
aboard turned out to be a pleasant surprise for overnight guests,
including Jim and Beth Ridge of Portage, Michigan.
"We were just looking
for a B&B, but when I found out about this tall ship, I said 'wow!'
Jim enthused. I thought it would be the perfect way to introduce
my wife to sailing," he explained, enjoying steaming coffee, morning
views of West Grand Traverse Bay and scones still warm from the
galley's wood-burning stove.
"He planned it all,
right from the beginning," added his spouse, Beth, who lacked
any past sailing experience but was as surprised as he to find
a schooner turned B&B. "We may come back, at least for another
day cruise," they agreed. The concept of spending a night aboard
the replica vessel, like those that plied the Great Lakes and
Eastern seaboard during the 1800s, appeals to "old salts" as well
as novices who aren't sure they're ready for a longer sail, but
are enticed to learn a bit about sailing traditions.
The Ridges met up with
other overnight guests at 5:45 at the office across the street
from pier, bought souvenir t-shirts and hats and road by van to
the pier just across busy M-22, known to locals as Southwest Bayshore
Drive. Driving across the road was a safety precaution and didn't
interrupt motor traffic the way individuals walking across might,
the driver explained.
Once aboard, it was
backwards down a steep, narrow ladder holding onto the brass railings
for support to find our cabins and stash our duffels. Four small
cabins waited below the main deck. With another eight cabins forward,
there's space for 24 passengers. Cabins on the Manitou
replicate those on antique models — measuring a minuscule
six feet by eight - tiny by motel standards and astonishing to
many first time passengers. "How will I breathe? I feel claustrophobic
already!" was Charlene Hayes' first reaction. Each cabin is outfitted
with two narrow bunks made up with fresh white linens and gray
wool blankets, a small window, reading lights, a wall light and
a plastic hospital-type basin that can be filled with water from
a common sink shared by four cabins so you can wash your hands
and face in the privacy of your cabin, if you wish. There's also
a small wall mirror.
If it sounds cozy,
it is. Rest assured, there's space for a couple to dress, but
perhaps not at the same time. The person in the top bunk needs
to remember to avoid sitting upright in bed and that a metal beam
jets across the ceiling about forehead level. Some passengers
opt to bring a sleeping bag and sleep on deck under the stars,
but the cabin quarters, albeit confined, offer a comfortably good
night's sleep. Although I was looking forward to the gentle floating
motion, I didn't feel the sway of the schooner, perhaps because
the lake was like glass or the mooring at the private pier was
so secure.
Captain Dave McGinnis
patterns his guests' experiences after the nearly week-long stays
aboard the early sailing vessels that tack in Penobscot Bay, Maine
where he earned his training aboard a schooner similar to the
Manitou. Small towns, like Camden and Rockland, Maine have
ports lined with antique boats ready to initiate patrons with
sailing styles of long ago. Boats there moor in safe harbors during
the evening while passengers and crew sleep. Here, in Michigan,
McGinnis does much the same thing, only for shorter periods of
time: two-hour sails in Grand Traverse Bay and single night stays
docked at the boat's private pier.
Traditionally, boats
plying the Great Lakes and the Atlantic Coast used wood burning
stoves for cooking and heating water and masts for power. In keeping
with the past, the Manitou's wood burner also heats water
for the showers located in the two bathrooms and Manitou's
chef, Australian-born Stacey Ingram, prepares a full hot breakfast
over fire wood.
By the time she rang
the breakfast bell, signaling the start of the sit-down family
style meal featuring bowls of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, bacon,
sausages and stacks of pancakes, we already sampled her warm pastries
and coffee set out on a tray topside. Another custom taken from
New England trips, blueberry scones and a cup o'joe were the perfect
accompaniment for quietly watching the sunrise.
This summer is the
first time for McGinnis' full time role as innkeeper, but it compliments
his captain's duties. His uniform — a well-worn baseball
cap and a t-shirt with the schooner's logo — is casual, but
his care for safely and professionalism abound, along with an
affable and approachable personality. And it doesn't matter whether
he's shouting sailing orders or offering would-be sailors a chance
to steer.
"The Manitou,
a replica of a 'coasting' cargo schooner from the 1800s, was built
in New Hampshire in 1983 as a passenger vessel," Dave explained
as he joined passengers at breakfast. He brought the schooner
to Traverse City in 1991 for the owners, Traverse Tall Ship Company,
and captains cruises by day and operates the B&B in the evening.
The evening sail, like
the two other daily events aboard the Manitou, are open to the
public who usually reserve space ahead of time, but the 6:30 p.m.
sail is part of the B&B package. Once off the dock, the crew sells
soft drinks, wine, beer and even champagne from a picnic cooler.
The evening we chose
was perfect for a walk on one of Traverse City's sandy beaches,
but not for catching enough wind to sail the five-masted Manitou.
Time was spent quietly drifting or touring under motor, with the
wind picking up long enough to give passengers a tease of what
true sailing might be like. No one seemed to mind the lack of
wind in the sails, especially the young couple seated nearby.
Luckily there was that
champagne in the cooler because the twilight sail served as a
lovely backdrop for a surprise engagement toast. Courtney Bowers
thought the cruise was a romantic, 25th birthday present from
her boyfriend, Nate Mazwrek — until he kneeled, proposed
and placed a diamond ring on her finger with Captain Dave snapping
the camera. The picnic dinner — a turkey sandwich, brownie
and small servings of pasta salad and Cole slaw — wasn't
much of an engagement dinner and couldn't compare to the sumptuous
meals served in New England so after the cruise, several guests,
including the betrothed, took in a lively local spot, the Apache
Trout Grill, overlooking the water and less than a mile from the
Manitou. McGinnis recommended it for its nautical ambiance,
outdoor tiki bar and good food, and it was a perfect spot to take
in local color.
There's a curfew of
sorts on board — the plank is lifted so no one can come aboard
after 11, but that's okay — sailing is relaxing and tiring
at the same time. Weather is not a factor captain or guests can
second-guess. Infrequent inclement conditions may cancel the sail,
but overnight guests have several options, including a money-back
refund. Another is to sleep on board and sail the next day if
there's room. Adjustments are given no matter what guests prefer.
"To our knowledge, the Manitou's the only schooner on the
Great Lakes offering overnight amenities," McGinnis thinks, adding
regional B&B associations and national websites are glad to have
a floating B&B amongst its members.
One of the differences
between the Manitou, with her home on the Great Lakes,
and Eastern crafts is that she bears a steel hull, designed for
freshwater sailing, the captain explained. Otherwise, she's similar,
down to the two tiny bathrooms (called "heads") each with a toilet
that required pumping, and small basin with a shower overhead.
A schooner sailing adventure with limited cabin space, a fend-for-yourself
deck sans private bathrooms, service staff and comforts of luxury
liners isn't for everyone. But for those willing to try it, spending
the night on the Manitou is an easy commitment for novices —
and it's a closer to home tall ship experience for Midwesterners.
Passengers like the Ridges say they'll try it again, hoping for
more wind.
If
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