Canadians and Midwesterners
heading south this winter will likely spend long motoring hours
on I-75, the North/South interstate weaving through Michigan,
Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee and Georgia before ending in Miami.
If you're one of those thousands of snowbirds making this journey,
you can make reaching your final destination pleasurable by braking
at interesting towns along the way, say at one of this road's
best hidden treasures: Berea, Kentucky. Considered the folk arts
and crafts capital of Kentucky, it's just a half hour south of
Lexington, but still in the Bluegrass Region. Give yourself some
upright exercise by taking in local sights at Berea College and
make time to shop for last minute gifts beautifully handcrafted
items you might be surprised to discover in the heart of Appalachia.
Originally the college's
weaving headquarters, the 1917 Log House (that doesn't look like
a log house inside) provides contemporary retail space brimming
with wooden games, baskets, hand-wrought iron, hand blown glass,
silver jewelry, hand-woven throws, pottery, calligraphy, and prints.
And furniture. Upstairs, the Wallace Nutting Furniture Museum
gives shoppers a peek at the original Early American styles that
Berea College students reproduce from local wild cherry and black
walnut.
In addition to college
crafters, the gallery juries regional artists selected for their
Appalachian workmanship, quality and materials. The Boone Tavern
Hotel Gift Shop down the street is sort of a branch of the gallery,
stocking a smaller selection off the hotel's lobby. Even if you're
expecting fine quality, you may still be surprised at some of
the prices originals aren't cheap, you know.
Learning to create
mountain crafts pottery, jewelry, weaving and spinning,
basket weaving, broom making is nothing new at the college or
in the Appalachian Mountains. It's a folk art passed down through
generations, until places like Berea College elevated handmaking
functional necessities and decorative crafts to an art form.
The crafts and college
became synonymous soon after the college's founding in 1855 when
Christian abolitionists began a tuition-free, open enrollment
school designed to provide a quality education to students with
financial need. "Their parents did chair caning, quiltmaking,
weaving and woodworking and out of gratitude would send along
a craft. William Frost, college president at that time, gathered
up the donated items, took them to big cities and held fairs to
raise money for the college while explaining its mission," explains
Peggy Bergio, coordinator of the college's student crafts program.
"
After realizing the
talent of the Appalachian region, Berea College began teaching
some of those crafts," she adds. Fireside Weavers began more than
100 years ago, with Woodcraft and Broomcraft added more recently.
Even today, 80 percent
of the students come from the Appalachian regions of Kentucky,
West Virginia, Virginia, North and South Carolina, Tennessee,
Ohio, Georgia and Alabama. Attendees must meet academic and financial
guidelines for admittance and all students put in 10-15 hours
per week in a work/study program to defray their expenses, she
explains. Because the area is lined with galleries, it feels like
everyone is involved, but only some 200 of the 1500 students actively
participate in the crafts portion of the four-year curriculum.
In true folk art fashion,
instructor Lonnie Reed learned broom making from his father. (His
parents taught the production craft at the college before they
retired and Lonnie stepped in.) "You just can't find people out
on the street who know how to do this," chimed in Ms. Bergio.
"Lonnie takes students who don't know anything about broom making
and trains them so they can keep quality up and meet the 24-hour
turnaround deadlines we have," she continued, pointing to curved
handled and intricately designed specimens of the rural craft.
Take the free craft
tour and watch as students and masters work together. You'll stroll
through broom factory, passing dying vats where natural shades
of the broomcorn are transformed into vibrant jewel tones before
Lonnie and his students roll and braid it into the 15,000 functional
and decorative household brooms they sell each year. Not only
are they sold here, they're shipped the world over.
Then peruse the independent
shops located throughout the streets adjacent to the campus
along Chestnut Street, in two clusters: the Old Town Artisan Village
and College Square and of course, off country roads. You'll discover
galleries set up by artists who graduated from Berea College or
consider themselves "local" no matter how far away their roots
began. "A lot of them migrate here because of the community
and it's nice to be among other crafts people," explains Ms. Bergio.
Some of the more than
50 artists tucked away in the hills of this rural countryside
are producing museum quality art pieces ones you'd find
in fancy gallery shops and discriminating big-city gift stores
throughout the country. I met many of the artists, as you will,
when you visit and being a fan of museum shops, recognized the
work of several artists who sell work to galleries. Unlike those
shops, though, you can meet the artists here, like Ken Gastineau,
whose silver jewelry stocks such shops. Watching him work and
browsing the selection in the shop he and his wife operate - provide
the human element that makes art creations such wonderful presents.
The Gastineaus started their metalsmith business in Tesuque, just
north of Santa Fe. "We were looking for an arts and crafts community
we could afford to live in and this is closer to our family,
but we could have picked anywhere in the United States," he says.
"Of course, Santa Fe is a much larger city, but both are arts
and crafts communities."
Their shop, featuring
cast pewter, bronze and sterling silver fashion jewelry is among
others in the Old Town Artisan Village on North Broadway. Nearby,
the Berea Welcome Center, in the restored train depot, showcases
samples from the shops and provides directions to studios along
the Kentucky Artisan Heritage Trails.
Across the parking
lot, Jimmy Lou Jackson, a glass beadmaker who set up shop in a
corner of her sister's "The Honeysuckle Vine" could double as
stand-up comedian. "I was in my fifties when I started this business
so when you're working over a hot torch, having a hot flash
- what else do you name your business, but 'Hot Flash Beads,'"
she laughed, demonstrating her craft and joking with customers.
She'll customize a pendant or bracelet for you while you chat.
The rest of the shop stocks gift items and a year round Christmas
collection as well as Bybee Pottery, a distinctive line of functional
ware from the oldest existing pottery west of the Alleghenies.
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